Varvara or Ashure, festively kicks off the holiday season in Northern Greece. And on some islands like Chios, it is served on Christmas morning. Full of preserved dried fruit, nuts and cereals, it’s the perfect winter treat.
Another version, in Turkey and some Balkan areas is also called Noah’s Pudding and is made to celebrate the holy month of Muharram.
It’s worth keeping in mind that you need to soak the wheat overnight and that usually Varvara is served the day after you make it! Even though to be honest we can never wait that long…
Origins of Varvara or Ashure
In Greece, Varvara/Ashure is made on December 3rd, the eve of St. Varvara‘s day. It is served on December 4th, with portions distributed to and exchanged with neighbouring houses. The saint is though to protect children and crops.
The Muslim populations call the dessert Noah’s pudding and make it to commemorate the landing of Noah’s ark.
But Varvara or Ashure long precedes Christianity and Islam. It is believed the dessert was made in ancient times to honour the goddess Hecate. The all powerful goddess was popular in Thrace and all over Asia Minor, the two areas that form modern day Turkey.
Different Versions
There is one main difference between the Greek and Turkish versions. The latter also includes pulsies, like beans or chickpeas and white beans. In Greece, beans of any sort they are absent altogether today. But until the late 20th century, just a couple of beans were included in the mix. It was considered a lucky omen to find them in your portion.
It feels like this is a dish to be made using dried fruits or nuts that you have handy. Other versions include for example dried apricots or add only raisins and forgo other dried fruits.
So don’t be afraid to experiment and add any dried fruit you have available or have a preference for. You can also replace the walnuts for almonds or mix the two. Some even add hazelnuts.
Obviously you can also replace sugar with honey but this will mean the Varvara or Ashure is no longer vegan.
Varvara or Ashure – An Ancient Christmas Treat
Course: Dessert, SnacksCuisine: Greek, Balkan, Middle EasternDifficulty: Easy10
servings10
minutes50
minutes1
hourAn ancient treat, full of natural goodness, that kicks off the festive season in Northern Greece and beyond
Ingredients
cracked wheat
brown sugar
walnuts, grounded
corn flour
cinnamon powder
clove powder
dried prunes, thinly chopped
dried figs, finely chopped
raisins
salt
pomegranate seeds (optional)
Directions
- Soak the wheat overnight.
- Drain in a colander and rinse until the water comes out clean.
- Place the wheat in a large pan, add a pinch of salt, two litters of water, and bring to the boil.
- Lower to medium and let the wheat boil till soft but still intact, for around 20-25 minutes. It should remain covered by half an inch or more of water. You will need the water to absorb the other ingredients so add some if you feel it is running low. Also don’t forget your Varvara will thicken as it gets colder.
- Meanwhile cut the dried fruits and grind the walnuts in the blender.
- Save a couple of walnuts and a tablespoon. of the ground walnuts to decorate the Varvara.
- Add the sugar, dried fruit, cinnamon and clove powder, mix and cook for another 5 minutes.
- Slowly add the cornflour, spoonful by spoonful, stiring for another 5 -10 minutes, until your Varvara thickens into a loose syrup.
- Remove from the heat and rest until it stops bubbling over. Add the ground walnuts and mix well.
- Move the Varvara into a large serving dish and/or divide into some individual bowls.
- Sprinkle with your ground walnuts and pomegranate seeds.
- Let the Varvara rest, cool and thicken overnight if you can .
- Enjoy and don’t forget to treat your friends or neighbours too!